Hello, it’s Pierre from Les Lodges de la Valière. I’m often asked at breakfast, ‘Pierre, where are we going cycling today?’, so I’ve finally put together a list of my favourite routes for you. Cycling here is a way of life. We’ve got the lake, the mountain passes, the forests, and dozens of routes that start practically right on the doorstep of the lodges.
So make yourselves comfortable – I’ll take you on my favourite rides around Serre-Ponçon. Whether you’re on an e-bike, a beginner or a seasoned cyclist, or the sort who devours mountain passes on a road bike, there’s plenty to do. And I’ve saved the best for last: what awaits you in the evening, once your calves are thoroughly tired.
Why go cycling in Serre-Ponçon in the height of summer?
Because we’re lucky enough to live in a place that enjoys around 300 days of sunshine a year, with cool nights just the way we like them. In summer, we set off early, cycle whilst it’s still cool, and head back for a swim or a nap. The lake accompanies you round almost every bend, with that turquoise water you rarely find anywhere else. Yes, yes, believe me, it’s the sort of scenery that makes you forget you’re climbing – well, almost.
Electric mountain bikes for a gentle start
Electric assistance is a great way to explore the mountains without getting too out of breath. Here are three rides I’d wholeheartedly recommend to beginners.
An easy first ride along the lake
Head for the Curattes viewpoint, setting off from the lodges. A lovely trail takes you to the viewpoint, then winds back down towards the hamlet of Chanteloube, right by the water’s edge. You’ll stay on small roads and forest tracks, through a pine forest with the lake as a backdrop. It’s gentle, easily accessible, and the perfect first taste of the area.
How do you get to the Chanteloube Viaduct?
A step up in difficulty, but still manageable in an electric vehicle. The Chanteloube Viaduct loop is around 22 km long with 650 m of elevation gain, mostly on forest tracks, featuring a short, narrow, fun path that descends towards the viaduct. This half-submerged structure, with its arches plunging into the lake, is one of the most popular photo spots in the area. You’ll return with your memory card full of stunning images.
Can you climb Mont Colombis on an electric bike?
Yes, and it’s the ‘graduation’ ride for beginners. The climb to Mont Colombis (1,733 m) follows small roads and forest tracks, covering around 20 km with an elevation gain of 1,100 m. I won’t lie to you – it’s a lovely day’s ride. But with the motor’s assistance and at a leisurely pace, it’s well within your reach. And up there, the view over the lake is magnificent. Take a picnic and make the most of your time in the mountains.
My electric bike routes for experienced riders
Do you have plenty of stamina and love steep climbs and fast descents? These three routes are tailor-made for you. Be warned, though – we’re talking about serious elevation gain and sections that can be quite technical.
Lake Saint-Apollinaire, the hidden gem
It’s Serre-Ponçon’s ‘secret’ little brother, nestled amongst the larch trees. Setting off from the Lodges de la Valière, join the GR 50 (above Chorges) to reach the lake. It’s a route of around 23 km with 1,000 m of elevation gain, reserved for experienced hikers, featuring a technical descent nicknamed the ‘crazy single track’. The lake itself is a little gem, perfect for a quick dip in summer, with Serre-Ponçon and the Grand Morgon in the background.
What are the Ruban and the Col Lebraut?
An absolute must-do in the area, and definitely one of my favourites. The ‘Ruban’ is a ridge trail offering the most stunning panoramic view of the lake, with a winding descent down to the Col Lebraut. After that, it gets a bit more technical as you head down to the water’s edge: a few steep sections before you’re off on a smooth, rolling trail. Challenging riding, stunning views, and great cycling. Our friends at Hélo Vélo have even made it one of their flagship routes.
The Col de la Gardette and the Réallon ridges
For those with strong legs and lovers of the great outdoors. The loop via the Col de la Gardette is around 30 km long with 1,060 m of elevation gain, rated as expert level. The route follows the ridges of the Serre du Mouton, facing the Aiguilles de Chabrières, on the edge of the Écrins National Park. The climbs are steep, sometimes requiring a bit of pushing, but the 360° panoramic views are worth every pedal stroke. An important reminder: you’re very close to the heart of the Park here, so please stick to the marked trails.
And whilst I’m on the subject of these mountain bike trails, I’d like to take this opportunity to mention that every year, on 14 July, Chorges hosts Terr’des Alpes, a mountain bike or e-mountain bike ride starting from Chorges; not timed (advance registration required).
The great classics of road cycling
Do you prefer tarmac and long, steady climbs? Serre-Ponçon is a dream playground for climbers. Here are my three recommendations.
Should you dare to tackle the Serre-Ponçon Lake loop?
If you’re up for a challenge, go for it. The full circuit is around 109 km with 2,900 m of elevation gain – a loop classified as ‘difficult’ – passing through Chorges, Puy-Sanières, Puy-Saint-Eusèbe, Savines-le-Lac, the Ubaye valley and the dam. The lake changes its appearance with every pass. It’s magnificent! As a one-day ride, it’s a real feat. Spread over two days, it becomes a dream cycling tour, with breaks for a swim and leisurely explorations of the Demoiselles Coiffées or the dam. It’s up to you to set your own pace.
The climb to the village of Les Gourniers.
It’s short, but it’s just the right amount of challenging. From the lodges, you climb towards the village of Réallon, with a lovely view of the Écrins massif, torrents and grey marl. It’s a dead-end mountain road leading to the village: ideal for a ‘steep climb’ ride before heading back down via Saint-Apollinaire and its viewpoint.
What’s the Route des Puys like?
My favourite route for cycling ‘along the balconies’. The ‘balconies’ of the Durance via the Route des Puys cover around 46 km with 1,500 m of elevation gain, always high above the lake, offering superb views of the Durance valley and Lake Serre-Ponçon, time and time again. It’s so beautiful you never tire of it. Here too, you pass through Puy-Sanières and Puy-Saint-Eusèbe, along quiet country lanes. A feast for the eyes, and excellent training before tackling the great Alpine passes such as the Izoard, the Agnel or the Galibier.
Where can I hire a bike in Chorges?
Don’t have your own kit? Le Bike Shop Serre-Ponçon (in the Pays de Serre-Ponçon tourist office building in Chorges) rents out high-quality electric mountain bikes. You’re free to set off as you please: there are several routes to choose from, which you can follow on your smartphone or using a map provided, with a helmet and phone pouch included. And if you’d prefer to be accompanied, a team of state-qualified guides will be delighted to show you the most beautiful routes in complete safety. Needless to say, for a stay at Les Lodges de la Valière, it’s the perfect combination.
To plan your routes in advance at your own pace, the Serre-Ponçon Tourist Office has a list of all the signposted trails.
After all that exertion, it’s time to unwind at Les Lodges de la Valière
This is where Cindy and I will be waiting for you in the evening. You’ll return feeling thoroughly tired but delighted by your day out, and here, everything has been thought of so that you don’t have to do a thing. Let’s start with the hot tub; yes, every one of our lodges now has its own. Slipping into the warm water with nothing but the silence of the mountains to be heard: quite frankly, there’s no better remedy after a day spent crossing mountain passes.
If your legs are still crying out for a bit of attention, we’ve got a massage (Please do let us know in advance, as our massage therapist isn’t always on site) and you’ll leave feeling as good as new for the next day.
When it comes to culinary delights, we’ll leave it up to you to choose the perfect moment: a planche apéro on the terrace as the sun sets over the lake, or a repas raffiné on evenings when you fancy treating yourself. You relax, and we’ll take care of the rest. That’s pretty much our idea of a holiday.
But that’s not all, because the real luxury comes when night falls: the jacuzzi under the stars. You slip into the water, tilting your head back, and I won’t say any more – I’d much rather you discover the beauty of our sky for yourselves.
There’s also a moment I look forward to every year: the weekend of Saint Victor’s Day, the patron saint of Chorges, in mid-July. That evening, there’s a fireworks display, and you can watch it from your hot tub, a drink in hand. Believe me, that’s definitely the little extra something.
And the next day, our brunch alpin is waiting to help you get in shape as soon as you wake up.
What precautions should you take before setting off on a ride?
One final point, and a very important one at that. The mountains are bountiful, but they demand respect.
Always follow the trail markings and ride in the correct direction. The routes are designed for your safety and to protect the natural environment: do not cut across protected areas, especially near the Parc national des Écrins. And we pass hikers and other cyclists with a smile, slowing down as they approach. Yes, it seems obvious, but shared paths can sometimes be a source of frustration for users, so it’s best to approach them with a smile and courtesy.
Keep an eye on the mountain weather, which can change very quickly. A blue sky in the morning doesn’t guarantee a blue sky in the afternoon: summer thunderstorms can sometimes roll in within an hour. Check the forecast before you set off, and never hesitate to cut your ride short if the weather takes a turn for the worse.
In the heat of the day, your main enemy is the sun. Set off early, take plenty of water (more than you think you’ll need), sun cream, and something to eat. A helmet is not optional. On technical trails, gloves and protective gear are a good idea. And for longer rides, let us know your route before you set off: that’s what we’re here for, and it puts our minds at ease to know where you’re riding.
So, ready to hop on your bike? Choose your route – we’ll get the hot tub and dinner ready. See you soon at Les Lodges de la Valière.
Pierre